| Get forged pistons and be done with it. That way.. nothing has been changed except the pistons. (which is better for durability anyway). Only problems people have are with the bearings... and its usually through severe tuning or cars that are tuned too aggressively. I say.. at the bare min.. get forged pistons. Get a min bore 87.5mm. get everything refreshed. Get a knock controller so you can see when knock is present. get it tuned extra conservatively. Most of the guys that have issues with built motors are pushing very high hp.. I'm talking almost 900hp at the engine. If you are wanting to keep it around ~500rwhp on pump.. I dont see why you would have any issues. As long as the timing and fuel are right. widebands and EGT probes wouldn't hurt either. Good way to keep an eye on things. No reason why it wouldn't last another 100k miles.
~~~ Sig starts below
~~~NO, This picture is not photoshopped.
AIM:Shawn300zxTT "-Any closeups on the nuts? - zboost(tx) 19:17:53
08/08/05
-Not really something you want to ask another man
about... (n/m) - LordZ 19:24:00 08/08/05" "I just took 45 min and scrubbed the heck out of my rear"
teambushido(San Diego, CA) 19:24:51 12/11/04 -1991 Stage _ TT 5spd (Upgraded to hell and back)
Custom widebody -2000 Nissan Altima SE (Daily driver)
-1990 Midnight blue 2+2 NA 5spd. (conversion soon :)
-2001 Ford F-150 Crew cab, 5.4 Triton v8.. Tow bitch
-2004 Honda CBR 600RR (Candy blue, FOR SALE)
-1990 Cherry Red Pearl ,Auto Coupe (Parts car) Gone..
-1990 Super White 2+2 Na Stage 3 Auto (Deceased :( )
-1990 11 Sec Eagle Talon Tsi AWD, (SOLD!)
-1997 Acura 2.2 CL, 5spd. Daily Driver.. (black ice victim
:( |
